Re: Honda Accord Transmission Control Module

[William Childress]

John Hirsch wrote:
> Needs replacing.
>
> Fine. No problem.
>
> Anyone have directions on HOW to do so.....????
>
> Real problem....

Had problem with this unit a couple of months
ago.

Dealer replaced at no charge.

Perhaps it was due to the recall on odometer
since the car had 53,000 on it and it should
not have been covered by warranty.

[John Hirsch]

:-)

I guess I should have indicated that it is a 1990 and has 289,000 miles on
it.

Dealer, I'm sure, would replace, but for more than I want to spend....


"William Childress" <auggie66@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:oLZai.3613$Da.3070@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
> John Hirsch wrote:
>> Needs replacing.
>>
>> Fine. No problem.
>>
>> Anyone have directions on HOW to do so.....????
>>
>> Real problem....
>
> Had problem with this unit a couple of months ago.
>
> Dealer replaced at no charge.
>
> Perhaps it was due to the recall on odometer since the car had 53,000 on
> it and it should not have been covered by warranty.
>

[Charles]

John Hirsch wrote:
> I guess I should have indicated that it is a 1990 and has 289,000
> miles on it.
>
> Dealer, I'm sure, would replace, but for more than I want to spend....

Yes, somewhere north of US$400.

What's the condition of the transmission fluid? It should be pink and not
smell burnt.

--
Chuck

[John Hirsch]

Fluid was replaced, it is pink, no out of the ordinary smell.
It has been a very good auto. I bought a used ATM for 150 bucks.

Just reached my limit of tools, knowledge and physical dexterity....How do
you unhook the bloody wires from this thing?

"Charles" <electrochuckREMOVE@XXXatt.net> wrote in message
news:YqIbi.151338$p47.111011@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> John Hirsch wrote:
>> I guess I should have indicated that it is a 1990 and has 289,000
>> miles on it.
>>
>> Dealer, I'm sure, would replace, but for more than I want to spend....
>
> Yes, somewhere north of US$400.
>
> What's the condition of the transmission fluid? It should be pink and not
> smell burnt.
>
> --
> Chuck
>
>

[jim beam]

John Hirsch wrote:
> Fluid was replaced, it is pink, no out of the ordinary smell.
> It has been a very good auto. I bought a used ATM for 150 bucks.
>
> Just reached my limit of tools, knowledge and physical dexterity....How do
> you unhook the bloody wires from this thing?

simply press the tab and pull the plug. don't pull on the wires in case
you break them.


>
> "Charles" <electrochuckREMOVE@XXXatt.net> wrote in message
> news:YqIbi.151338$p47.111011@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>> John Hirsch wrote:
>>> I guess I should have indicated that it is a 1990 and has 289,000
>>> miles on it.
>>>
>>> Dealer, I'm sure, would replace, but for more than I want to spend....
>> Yes, somewhere north of US$400.
>>
>> What's the condition of the transmission fluid? It should be pink and not
>> smell burnt.
>>
>> --
>> Chuck
>>
>>
>
>

[Charles]

John Hirsch wrote:
> Fluid was replaced, it is pink, no out of the ordinary smell.
> It has been a very good auto. I bought a used ATM for 150 bucks.
>
> Just reached my limit of tools, knowledge and physical
> dexterity....How do you unhook the bloody wires from this thing?

As Jim says there's a button on the side of each of the connectors which you
push in slightly to release the catch. I usually have to gently push it in
with a lever of some kind release it and pry the connector out at the same
time. The connector fit can be tight and it is difficult to get your hand
in the right position.

Also be sure that the part numbers beginning with 28100 on the original and
the replacement modules are identical. (The lot numbers can vary.)

Any flashing indicator lamps on the computers when you started the engine?

--
Chuck

[John Hirsch]

Folks...

Replacing the computer worked!

Shifts like a charm, you'd almost think it were new!

(til you look at it)

thanks for everyones advice.

John
"William Childress" <auggie66@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:oLZai.3613$Da.3070@bignews4.bellsouth.net...
> John Hirsch wrote:
>> Needs replacing.
>>
>> Fine. No problem.
>>
>> Anyone have directions on HOW to do so.....????
>>
>> Real problem....
>
> Had problem with this unit a couple of months ago.
>
> Dealer replaced at no charge.
>
> Perhaps it was due to the recall on odometer since the car had 53,000 on
> it and it should not have been covered by warranty.
>

[Charles]

John Hirsch wrote:
> Replacing the computer worked!

If you're ambitious you can replace the half dozen or so electrolytic
capacitors in the old computer. Then you'll have a working spare. Note
that those capacitors are rated at 105C not 80C so they're a little more
expensive. The parts will still be less than five dollars.

--
Chuck

[jlelmjr@gmail.com]

On Jun 16, 7:08 am, "Charles" <electrochuckREM...@XXXatt.net> wrote:
> John Hirsch wrote:
> > Replacing the computer worked!
>
> If you're ambitious you can replace the half dozen or so electrolytic
> capacitors in the old computer. Then you'll have a working spare. Note
> that those capacitors are rated at 105C not 80C so they're a little more
> expensive. The parts will still be less than five dollars.
>
> --
> Chuck

Where can you find a TCU error chart? Have a 90 accord ex with
somewhat similar problems. Will drive fine when cold. When it gets
warmed up it won't shift into gear. Had to park it and come back.
LED is flashing 1,6,1,7,1,1,1,3.(I think)

[Charles]

jlelmjr@gmail.com wrote:
> Where can you find a TCU error chart? Have a 90 accord ex with
> somewhat similar problems. Will drive fine when cold. When it gets
> warmed up it won't shift into gear. Had to park it and come back.
> LED is flashing 1,6,1,7,1,1,1,3.(I think)

Until you find a list online or somebody comes along with the Accord codes,
I'll tell you what they mean for my Prelude (found in the service manual)
which may be identical.

1 - lockup solenoid A fault
3 - throttle angle sensor fault
6 - shift position switch fault
7 - shift control solenoid A fault

It is unlikely that all of those individual components are failing. What is
in common among them? Power supply? Ground? Some internal circuitry in
the transmission control computer?

Why not clear the codes which may have accumulated over several
intermittancies? Pull the 10 ampere alternator sense fuse in the engine
compartment for 10 seconds. On my car it is labeled Clock. Reinsert the
fuse. The stored codes have been erased. You should then see no flashing
LED when you turn on the ignition switch. Make sure that you're looking at
the TCU LED and not the lamp on the engine control computer. Then start the
engine. Still no codes? Fine. Drive it until it fails and then note the
codes.

--
Chuck

[jim beam]

Charles wrote:
> John Hirsch wrote:
>> Replacing the computer worked!
>
> If you're ambitious you can replace the half dozen or so electrolytic
> capacitors in the old computer. Then you'll have a working spare. Note
> that those capacitors are rated at 105C not 80C so they're a little more
> expensive. The parts will still be less than five dollars.
>

that would be a little lucky. the ones i've seen have a good deal more
fried than just a couple of caps.

[Charles]

jim beam wrote:
> that would be a little lucky. the ones i've seen have a good deal
> more fried than just a couple of caps.

The reason that it I'm guessing tired electrolytics is John's description of
the failure mode. Problems develop after the automobile has been operating
for some time. It could be temperature related.

--
Chuck